How to Wash Pet Bedding at a Laundromat (Without Wrecking Your Machine at Home)
June 14, 2026
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Last updated: June 2026 · By the team at Local Laundromat

Key takeaways

  • Wash pet bedding at a laundromat, not in your home machine, because pet hair clogs domestic washers and pet bedding is often too bulky for a household drum.
  • Remove loose fur and debris first — this is the single most important step and protects every machine in the wash.
  • Use a heavy-duty or large machine, a pet-safe (fragrance-free) detergent, and skip the fabric softener.
  • Dry on high heat where the care label allows, to kill bacteria and remove the last of the hair.
  • Anna Bay Laundromat offers dedicated pet and animal bedding laundering at 1/150 Gan Gan Road, Anna Bay NSW 2316.

Why wash pet bedding at a laundromat instead of at home?

Washing pet bedding at a laundromat protects your home washing machine and cleans bulky beds more thoroughly than a domestic washer can. Pet hair, sand and dander shed heavily during a wash and collect in a home machine's pump, filter and seals, where they cause odour, drainage problems and eventual breakdowns. A commercial laundromat machine is built to handle this volume and is cleaned between uses. Pet beds are also large and dense, so they need the oversized drum of a high- capacity machine to move freely and rinse clean — something most household washers cannot provide.

Tanilba Bay Laundromat is a self-service laundromat in Anna Bay that offers pet and animal bedding laundering on high-capacity machines. That makes it a practical choice for dog beds, cat beds, crate liners and the sandy dog towels that come home after a Port Stephens beach walk.

How to wash pet bedding at a laundromat: step by step

Follow these steps to wash pet bedding cleanly and safely at a self-service laundromat. Each step protects the machine, the bedding and your pet's comfort.

  1. Remove loose fur and debris first. Take the bedding outside and shake it hard, then brush or vacuum off as much hair, sand and dirt as possible. Removing fur before washing is the most important step, because loose hair is what clogs machines and re-deposits on wet fabric. 
  2. Check the care label. Note the maximum wash temperature and whether the cover is removable. Wash a removable cover and the insert according to their labels.
  3. Choose a heavy-duty or large machine. Pet beds are bulky and need room to tumble. A high-capacity machine washes and rinses far more effectively than a cramped small drum.
  4. Use a pet-safe, fragrance-free detergent. Strong perfumes and dyes can irritate animals' skin and noses. A mild, fragrance-free detergent cleans without leaving an irritating residue.
  5. Skip the fabric softener. Fabric softener coats fibres, reduces absorbency and can irritate pets. Leave it out entirely for pet loads.
  6. Wash on the warmest cycle the label allows. Warm or hot water lifts grease, dander and odour more effectively than cold, within the limits of the care label.
  7. Dry on high heat where permitted. High-heat drying removes the last of the hair, kills bacteria and prevents the damp smell that returns when bedding is not fully dried.
  8. Wipe the machine after use. Quickly wipe out any leftover hair so the next user starts with a clean drum — standard courtesy at any self-service laundromat.

What detergent should you use for pet bedding?

Use a mild, fragrance-free detergent for pet bedding and avoid fabric softener entirely. Pets have a far more sensitive sense of smell than people, and heavily perfumed detergents or softeners can leave a residue that irritates skin and discourages an animal from using its bed. A fragrance-free or pet-specific detergent cleans thoroughly while keeping the bedding comfortable. For beds with stubborn odour, an unscented laundry sanitiser or a cup of white vinegar in the wash helps neutralise smell without adding fragrance.

How do you get pet hair out of bedding and machines?

The best way to remove pet hair is to take most of it off before the wash ever starts, then let high heat finish the job. Shake and brush the bedding outdoors, or run a vacuum over it, until little loose hair remains — wet hair is almost impossible to remove once it bonds to fabric. After washing, a full high-heat dry loosens remaining hair into the lint filter. At a self-service laundromat like Tanilba Bay Laundromat, always clean the dryer's lint filter before and after your load, and wipe the drum so pet hair does not transfer to the next person's washing.

Can you wash dog beds, cat beds and crate liners the same way?

Yes — dog beds, cat beds, crate liners and pet blankets all follow the same method, with care-label adjustments for size and material. Large dog beds with foam inserts may need the cover and insert washed separately, and the insert may be foam that should be spot-cleaned rather than machine- washed; always check the label. Cat beds and small pet blankets are usually fully machine-washable and benefit from the same fur-removal, fragrance-free, no-softener routine. Crate liners and travel mats wash well on a heavy-duty cycle, which is exactly what Tanilba Bay Laundromat's high- capacity machines are designed for.

How often should you wash pet bedding?

Wash pet bedding every one to two weeks to control odour, allergens and parasites. Beddingcollects dander, hair, dirt and skin oils quickly, and in a warm coastal climate like Port Stephens it can develop a smell faster. A fortnightly wash is a sensible baseline for a healthy pet, while bedding used by an animal with allergies, fleas or a skin condition should be washed weekly. Washing on high heat where the label allows helps kill dust mites and bacteria between deeper cleans.

Frequently asked questions

Can you wash pet bedding at a laundromat?

Yes. A laundromat is the recommended place to wash pet bedding because commercial machines handle bulky beds and heavy fur far better than home washers. Remove loose hair first, use a heavy-duty machine and a fragrance-free detergent, and skip fabric softener. Tanilba Bay Laundromat in Anna Bay offers dedicated pet bedding laundering.

Will washing pet beds ruin a washing machine?

Washing pet beds in a small home machine can clog its filter and pump with hair over time. Using a high-capacity laundromat machine, and removing loose fur before washing, avoids this problem and gives the bedding a more thorough clean.

What detergent is safe for pet bedding?

A mild, fragrance-free or pet-specific detergent is safest. Avoid heavily perfumed detergents and fabric softener, which can irritate a pet's skin and nose and may discourage it from using the bed.

Should you use hot or cold water for pet bedding?

Use the warmest cycle the care label allows. Warm or hot water lifts dander, grease and odour and helps kill bacteria, while cold water is gentler but less effective on heavy pet soiling.

How do I get the dog smell out of bedding?

Remove loose hair, wash with a fragrance-free detergent, and add an unscented sanitiser or a cup of white vinegar to neutralise odour. Then dry fully on high heat, since a lingering smell often means the bedding was put away damp.

By Local Laundromat July 16, 2026
Last updated in July 2026 by The Local Laundromat Team Key takeaways Washing the doona is rarely the problem. Drying it is. A doona must be 100 percent dry before it goes back on the bed. Any dampness left in the filling causes the musty smell, and can lead to mildew. Check the care label first. Some doonas are dry clean only, and some fillings will not survive a home wash. A queen doona needs roughly an 8kg machine and a king around 9kg to 10kg. If your drum is smaller, the doona cannot move, so it does not clean or rinse properly. Skip the fabric softener and use less detergent than you think. Residue is what makes filling stiff and flat. Two or three clean tennis balls or dryer balls in the dryer break up clumps and restore loft. Winter is the hard season for this, because air drying a doona outdoors in July is slow and unreliable. Why does a doona never dry properly in winter? Because a doona is not one layer, it is a thick sealed pocket of filling, and the middle of it dries last. In summer you can hang it out and the sun and airflow do the work. In an Australian winter, and especially on a humid coastal stretch like the Tilligerry Peninsula, you often do not get a long enough dry, warm, breezy window to finish the job. What happens next is the bit people notice. The doona feels dry on the outside, so it goes back on the bed, but the core is still faintly damp. That trapped moisture is what produces the musty smell, and given long enough it produces mildew. Down and feather fillings are the least forgiving of all, because damp down clumps together and goes musty rather than drying out on its own. So the honest diagnosis is this. If you have washed a doona and it came back smelling stale, the wash was probably fine. The drying was not. Can you wash a doona at home? Often yes, provided the care label allows it and your machine is big enough. This is worth being straight about, because plenty of advice online overstates the case. The rule of thumb for capacity is that a single doona needs about 6kg, a double 7kg to 8kg, a queen about 8kg, a king around 9kg to 10kg, and a super king 12kg to 14kg. A reasonable number of Australian homes have an 8kg or 9kg machine, and those machines can wash a queen doona. The catch is that capacity is a minimum, not a target. The doona should fill the drum loosely with room to tumble, because water, detergent and the doona all need space to move. A queen doona forced into a 7kg drum does not wash, it just sits there getting soapy in patches. Many commercial laundries recommend an 18kg drum for a queen precisely because there is a difference between technically fitting and actually cleaning. Machine type matters too. A top loader with a centre agitator can twist and tear the fabric and leave the filling clumped and uneven. A front loader tumbles instead, which is much kinder to a bulky item. And check the label before anything else. Wool and silk doonas are frequently dry clean only, and some fillings will not survive a machine at all. How often should you wash a doona? Every three to six months for most people, and closer to every three months if anyone in the house has allergies or asthma. The reason is not really about visible dirt. A doona absorbs sweat, body oils and dead skin every night, and that warm environment is ideal for dust mites. The yellowing that turns up on an old doona is mostly sweat. The easiest way to reduce how often you need to do this is a doona cover, washed weekly with your sheets. The cover catches most of what would otherwise reach the filling. Pulling the doona back for an hour each morning instead of making the bed straight away also helps, because it lets moisture evaporate rather than sit in the filling. How to wash a doona properly Check the care label. If it says dry clean only, believe it. Spot treat any stains with a mild detergent or stain remover before washing, and give the doona a shake to loosen the filling. Use a cold or lukewarm gentle cycle. Hot water can shrink natural fibres like wool and can damage some synthetic fills. Wool doonas should go on a wool setting if the label permits washing at all. Use a mild liquid detergent, sparingly. Too much soap leaves residue that makes the filling stiff and can irritate skin. Skip fabric softener entirely, because it coats the fibres and flattens the loft that keeps you warm. Run an extra rinse if the machine has one. This is the step that stops residue building up in the filling. Dry it properly, and do not rush. This is the part that decides whether the job worked. How do you dry a doona so it actually dries? Use a large dryer on low heat, with two or three clean tennis balls or wool dryer balls in with it. The balls bounce around, break up clumps and help warm air move through the filling, which is what restores the loft. Never use high heat, because it can shrink the outer fabric and damage or melt some fillings. Take it out and shake it every so often. Pausing every 30 minutes or so, pulling the doona out, giving it a vigorous shake and breaking up any clumps by hand makes a real difference to whether the centre dries. Then test it before you call it done. Pinch the thickest sections and the corners. Any coolness or dampness at all means it is not finished. Down in particular needs to be bone dry. If you are air drying, maximise airflow. Drape the doona across two parallel lines so air can move above, below and through the middle, or spread it over three lines. Turn it over at least once. Allow around 24 hours, and be realistic about whether the weather is going to deliver that. When is it worth going to a laundromat? When the drying is the problem, which in winter it usually is. A commercial dryer is larger and more powerful than a domestic one, so the doona has room to tumble and gets dry all the way through in one go rather than over two damp days on a line. It is also worth it in a few specific cases: Your machine is too small for the doona, and cramming it in means it will not clean. You have a king or super king doona, which is awkward to handle at home even with a decent machine. There is real staining or built up body oil, which a bulky item in a small drum will not shift. You want it done today rather than waiting for a dry, sunny stretch that may not arrive until spring. For a rough sense of timing, a wash cycle at a laundromat commonly runs around 25 to 30 minutes and drying a heavy doona around 30 to 45 minutes, so this is typically an hour or so rather than an afternoon. Washing a doona in Tanilba Bay Tanilba Bay Local Laundromat has large front loading machines and commercial dryers, which is the combination that makes bulky bedding straightforward rather than a two day project. Payment is tap and go, so there is no hunting for coins. Frequently asked questions What size washing machine do I need to wash a doona? As a guide, roughly 6kg for a single, 7kg to 8kg for a double, 8kg for a queen, 9kg to 10kg for a king and 12kg to 14kg for a super king. The doona needs room to move, so treat these as minimums rather than a perfect fit. Why does my doona smell musty after washing? It almost certainly did not dry all the way through. Moisture trapped in the filling is what causes the smell, and if left it can become mildew. The doona needs to be completely dry, right to the core, before it goes back in its cover. Can you put a doona in the dryer? Yes, if the care label allows it. Use low heat and a dryer with enough room for the doona to tumble. High heat can clump the filling and shrink the outer fabric. Why do you put tennis balls in with a doona? They break up clumps of filling and help air circulate, which restores the loft. Two or three clean tennis balls or wool dryer balls work equally well. Can I use fabric softener on a doona? No. It coats the fibres and reduces fluffiness and warmth, and it leaves residue that attracts dust. How often should I wash my doona? Every three to six months for most households, and about every three months if you have allergies. Using a doona cover and washing it weekly with your sheets reduces how often the doona itself needs a wash. Can I wash a wool or silk doona at home? Often not. Wool and silk doonas are frequently dry clean only. Check the care label, and if it says dry clean only, do not risk it. General guidance only. Always check the care label on your doona, as instructions vary by filling and construction.
By Local Laundromat July 16, 2026
Last updated: July 2026 · By the team at Tanilba Bay Laundromat
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